Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Walking in Karen

Before dinner one day I went walking with a few other girls around the neighborhood.  We have maps of loops to do so we don't get lost or wander too far out of our neighborhood.  As we were walking a school bus carrying girls and boys from private schools stopped not far ahead of us. When the bus stopped three girls hopped off and ran over to us with huge smiles on their faces. They didn't say anything they were just star struck with smiles on their faces and held up their hands to hi-five us. We tried talking to them in Swahili but they didn't say anything- just stood there staring and smiling. It was so cute to see them so excited to see new people in their neighborhood.  I think the Kenyans here can tell that we are new as well. Not just because we are white- there are a few white families in Karen, but because they can tell by the look on our faces. We cannot hide our insecurities, curiosity, and sometimes discomfort- and they can read this on our faces. They know we are new.
        I try and explain as much as I can about Nairobi and about Karen and the people that inhabit these places because I am in most cases forbidden to take pictures. It is against the law to take pictures of government buildings in Nairobi and people take offense to getting their picture taken.  Once I recognize the buildings that do not belong to the government, I will take picture! I am here for 4 months and the compound, Nairobi, and Karen are not going anywhere. I figure once the natives around here realize I am no longer a tourist, I will start taking pictures.  I need to settle in first and establish myself here.
        In Karen there are Massai markets.  The massi people are the single story image that comes to mind when you think of Africa: women wearing many beads, multiple piercings, and brightly colored cloths. These people make intricate art, jewelry, and kangas (fabric that can be made into skirts). They usually have vendors that can speak English for them since they are so attached to their roots they do not feel to need to learn English. The vendors always always always rip you off. They say to me "sister sister I give you good price, you are student, we are friends, good price for you but shhh!" I don't believe them but they do need to make a living too. Once I learn how to bargain in Swahili, I will be more respected and then I will be able to buy cheap things and eventually save myself alot of money. Jau our bus driver sometimes accompanies us to the market and stands in the background laughing at how these vendors try and rip us off. I always feel so frivolous bargaining with these people who are trying to make a living- we try and bargain something that cost 500 shillings to 200 shillings (about 5 USD to 2 USD). They are trying to make a living and we are trying to not get ripped off. We want to be treated like Kenyans too- we are living among them for 4 months, we want to be treated fairly. But I do understand their need to make a living and new 'rich' white people are the perfect target. We do not know the real prices, we do not know what is a good deal so the vendors win. Once I learn the culture of the massai markets I will start buying!
        A few days ago when I was running I passed by a huge open truck of soldiers each holding a rifle and all in green and black uniform.  I was so scared to look at them thinking that giving them the wrong look might set them off. Instead, they called out to us and said Jambo, Welcome brothers and sisters. This isn't my first encounter with men with guns- another image that many associate with Africa. Police officers do not keep a baton or gun hidden in their belt, they carry an AK-47 so that everyone can see it. They had never used it and there have been no reports of any accidents, they just want to give off and aura of power. Ever since the recent troubles in Somalia with the al-shibab, Kenyan police are taking nothing to chance. They flaunt their AK-47s so that no one will even try of doing any funny business.
         

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